The Galilee Away Week:

This past week has been a ‘break’ from the routine of lectures, studies and visits. I decided to get the bus up to the north and spend 3 full days in The Galilee, based in Tiberius at the Franciscan run ‘Casa Nova’. After a 3 hour bus ride I arrived in Tiberius on Monday afternoon and spent the rest of the day familiarizing myself with the town and finding a ‘bike hire’ outlet……which I did: 60 shekels a day. So I hired one from 8 am on Tuesday until 6 pm on Wednesday.

The Eremos Cave near Tabgha - 10 Nov 09

A Hyrax in the Capernaum National Park.

The Jordan river into the northern end of Galilee.

Tuesday I collected the bike at 8.30 am and headed off north cycling up the western side of the Lake towards Capernaum. Because I had no map, and due to my inquisitiveness, I headed down a number of roads leading to the lake shore just to see what was there: orchards, farms, the town where tradition says Mary Magdalene came from, kibbutzim and the like. These little detours gave me a better feel of the countryside but was no good for my knees or my posterior!! The area around the lake is very hilly so I often found myself walking up and coasting down! Needs must! I got to Tabgha (two sites: Feeding of the 5000 and the ‘Primacy of Peter’) spent sometime in the church praying and watching the crowds come and go. I also found a decent map! From there I walked to Capernaum (3 kilometres) via a small park (having ‘lunch’ and a time for pondering in the Eremos Cave just below the site of the Beatitudes! Did Jesus spend time here? Some traditions say ‘yes’ [see picture]). From Capernaum back to my bike and then back to Tiberius arriving shattered at 4 pm!! After a rest and the usual, out into the town for a bite to eat and then bed…………necessary with the day yet to follow.

The stone on the western side of the Lake of Galilee commemorating the second miracles of loaves.

The stone: closer up!

Looking the way I came (looking north up Route 92).

On Wednesday I decided I wanted to cycle as far as Tel Hadar on the eastern shore of the lake. So I set off at 8 am, cycled past Tabgha and Capernaum up to the Jordan River. My map indicated that I could cut off a corner of the northern shore along a track: after 1 kilometre or so it was obvious that I could only do it if I was willing to get the bike and myself wet and muddy (one really needed a 4x4!). So back onto the road and over the northern end of the lake eventually getting to Tel Hadar (a Tel is an archaeological mound). On this Tel was a stone (see picture) commemorating the Feeding of the 4000 (Mark 8; Matthew 15). It was a pleasant surprise because it does not seem to be on the tourist/pilgrimage route so there were no buses, no church and therefore no people. It was a place to stop and ponder and imagine the possible scene as described in the gospels (so difficult in other places because of the churches and the people! A find, as they would say! At this stage I realised that I was over half-way around the Lake so decided to go on in the hope that heading south was quicker and that there would be fewer hills. The former was true, not sure about the latter! Nevertheless it was good passing though plantations, holiday camps, industrial areas, army bases, even past the place commemorating the swine running into the lake (though now they would have a distance to go because the Lake is shrinking!). Eventually, 8 hours after setting off, back to Tiberius and a proper sit down! How many miles……….? Not sure. Some say 45 kilometres or so (excluding detours)…..but I have never been good at measuring distances.

Commemorating the rock from which the swine jumped into the Lake (Mt 8 30)
also a memorial for Israeli dead from war.

The sun setting on the western hills of the Sea of Galilee

Back at Casa Nova after 8 hours! (11 Nov 09). Proof that the 'old man' at
least had a bike - and he did cycle the whole circumference of the Lake!!

Thursday, to cut a long story short, went walking up Mount Bernice (daughter of King Agrippa) which took about 2 hours. Had ‘lunch’ and listened to the whole of Mark’s Gospel trying to imagine the scenes (many of which would be within sight of the mountain top). Came home a different way (bit like the Magi!) and back to base at 3 pm. On Friday I hitched a lift within someone else on the course who with others had a car and so got back to Jerusalem 4 hours earlier than expected. Now to catch up!

Your correspondent (counting the days……….), Vincent.

Blog Part | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 |

Close this window or return to latest section of blog